Cycling in Berkeley

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Overview[edit]

This page will contain an updated, cleaned-up, and expanded version of the information in this Google Doc.

Bicycle Tools[edit]

Tool Lending[edit]

The Berkeley Public Library system as a Tool Lending Library with many hand and power tools available: http://www.berkeleypubliclibrary.org/about_the_library/neighborhood_branches/tool_lending_library/

Missing Link also has a selection of bicycle tools available for use in the store: http://www.missinglink.org/

Maintenance Tricks[edit]

Stuck crank bolt? Try an impact driver (also pushes down) or impact wrench (impactor, air wrench, air gun, rattle gun, torque gun) to unfreeze it!

Crank dustcap threads screwed up? Run a 22x1mm rethreading tap through, then extract the crank with a Park Tools CWP-7.

Camming out a lot of Philips head screws lately? They’re designed to do that! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out

(This is why Torx and Pozidriv are used in many products now.)

Vibrations shaking your bolts loose? Try a thread-locking fluid: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid

Overhauling the bottom bracket? Make sure you’re unscrewing in the right direction! via: http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/bracket.htm

"Begin by removing the lockring. On new Shimano cartridge BBs, the lockring is on the left-hand side, opposite the chain. Turn counter-clockwise. After removing the lockring, flip the bike over, and take out the bottom bracket. Use the same bracket tool and wrench. NOTE: the bottom bracket unscrews in the opposite direction. Turn it clockwise!”

Chainring mangled? Before you replace it, you can try repairing it: http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/chainrng.htm

Looking for square-taper crank bolts? Don’t overspend - they’re all the same! via: http://velospace.org/forums/discussion/3808/which-crank-bolt-to-use/

“Basically, all square-taper crank bolts are the same size, assuming that it's a square-taper BB/crankset. They're a commodity; some a prettier, some a chrome-plated, but they're all basically identical. If you ask for them as "square-taper crank bolts", the shop guy will probably say "we've got a million of 'em - gimme a buck for each one". There are thick washers that go underneath the bolt head, and lie flat on the bottom of the countersink in the crankarm; make sure to get those, too. They keep the aluminum crankarm from getting trashed by the steel bolt-head as you torque it tight.”